The chanfana is still the most sought after delicacy in August, in the interior of the district of Coimbra, although goat farming has decreased in recent years, raising the price of meat.
Alerts about the decline in goat livestock production have emerged from several fronts, along with some efforts to reverse the situation. Despite, the answer to the national goat shortage has proven to be insufficient.
In butcher shops, the price of this meat varies between 5.95 and 6.25 euros, with slight differences.
“There can be no development of societies without a connection with local resources,” Jorge Brito, executive secretary of the Intermunicipal Community of the Coimbra Region, told the Lusa agency.
Jorge Brito lamented the accentuation of the trend towards “a tremendous rest” in the raising of goats, with incidence in the prices of the raw material of the chanfana.
In his opinion, it is necessary to develop “initiatives to dignify” the grazing of small ruminants, goats and sheep, for the production of meat and cheese.
“Around the table we like to get everyone together, but around the herds it is more difficult”, jokes the geographer, highlighting that the municipality of Vila Nova de Poiares “has had background work” to promote goat farming.
Of this investment, we highlight the inauguration, two weeks ago, of a capril with 75 heads, as part of a partnership between the Chamber chaired by João Miguel Henriques and the São Miguel de Poiares Parish Council.
Praising the role of goats in fire prevention, cleaning forest areas, stubble and abandoned fields, Jorge Brito defended the creation of a “system of incentives and aidvalue the shepherd’s trade, “under penalty of not having the product” that differentiates the territory.
At 72 years old, Manuel Nogueira, who for decades had a butcher shop in Lousã, is still linked to the sector, as an authorized dealer of live cattle.
In his opinion, it is important that the State grants”increased support” to the creators, so that they are not discouraged in the activity.
“It would be of special help in terms of food,” advocated Manuel do Talho, as he is better known in the region, stressing that “the priest has nothing, neither on Sundays nor on holidays.”
In this age, “the consumption of chanfana is much higher” during the rest of the year, as a main course in the village festivals and “very popular” by tourists and emigrants.
The Covid-19 pandemic has especially affected the goat segment of the meat market, which explains, this year, “an increase of perhaps 80% in demand” compared to 2020 and 2021, according to Manuel Nogueira, who is still like to raise sheep. and goats
When the wedding anniversary lasted two days or more, 100 to 120 kilos of chanfana were consumed, the butcher recalled.
This meat was one of the cheapest.at a time when 10 current “shale villages”, in the municipalities of Góis, Miranda do Corvo and Lousã, had thousands of goats that cleaned the Serra da Lousã.
Since 2018, the Associação de Desenvolvimento do Ceira e Dueça (Dueceira), which brings together Lousã, Poiares, Miranda do Corvo and Penela, has valued gastronomy around the “Terras da Chanfana” brand, distinguished as one of the “7 Wonders to the Table of Portugal”.
“With this process we feel that the chanfana has gone from a rustic, familiar and festive dish to a national dish. It has not lost its authenticity, but it has been given the well-deserved recognition in an integral way”, said Ana Souto, coordinator of Dueceira.
Speaking to Lusa on behalf of the mayor of Lousã Luís Antunes, president of the board of directors, Ana Souto highlighted that the four municipalities’ commitment to the brand aims to “reinforce what together they do better“.
Patrícia Dias, from the Zé Padeiro restaurant, in Miranda do Corvo, confirmed that the chanfana is one of the most sought-after delicacies in August.
“I never miss the goat meat“said the managing partner. Sometimes, however, providers admit that “it is more complicated to arrange.”
Since 1981, the company has made a name for itself in the production of roast suckling pig, but also, especially in summer, it is dedicated to the production of succulent kid meats roasted in red wine.
“Clients from Lisbon, Aveiro and Santarém come here to buy caçoilas de chanfana”, reveals Patrícia Dias.
In Miranda do Corvo, the Real Confraria da Cabra Velha, directed by António Simões, is committed to promoting and defending the quality of the chanfana.
Recognizing that meat is “more expensive 20%“, guarantees that “there is no shortage”, while the mayor, Miguel Baptista, lamented in April, within the framework of the Chanfana Week, that the available animals are not enough for the needs.
“The sale of chanfana in restaurants has increased,” the “royal dean” of the Brotherhood, which celebrated Chapter XVII four months ago, told Lusa.
On September 11, it is the turn of the Confraria da Chanfana, in Vila Nova de Poiares, to organize the XIX Grand Chapter.
These gastronomic meetings usually bring together hundreds of diners, including confreres and guests from related organizations.
Source: Observadora
