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It seemed that the shows were already over for this season, but Nuno Gama was waiting for the official arrival of spring to present his proposals. This Saturday he turned the walk in front of the MAAT into his catwalk and presented the “Luzboa” collection, for which not only the clothes were custom-made, but also the music. The pieces arrive in the store next week.
At 5:20 p.m., when the parade began, the thermometer read 25ºC. The sun was timid, perhaps due to the Saharan dust that arrived in Portugal over the weekend, but the light was perfect, according to the photographer of this article. From the stairs to the door of the MAAT, a bench was created for the guests and each one was entitled to a cushion with the theme of the collection. The models left the Central Tajo building and walked along the entire promenade that runs along the river bank and then headed to the terrace that covers the MAAT and returned to the backstage. It is an 18-minute trip, according to Nuno Gama himself.
In the live scene, boats passed by with people waving, applauding or simply appreciating. Under the canopy of the museum, next to the famous “Solitaria” by Joana Vasconcelos, still on display, the GNR orchestra was installed. At a certain point in the parade a voice joined the music. André Viamonte brought his own songs and also one created specifically for this show and with the name of the collection so that the presentation ended with the word “Luzboa” in the ears of the spectators.
Nuno Gama leaves ModaLisboa and presents a show in Castelo de São Jorge: “The time has come to make my way”
“There is something that fascinates me, why were we born here and not in other places? Why do we have this border? Why is Lisbon like this? “Why do people love being here?” Nuno Gama explains to Observador at the end of his parade. “All these things that we take for granted are things that make me think, I would like to understand that one day they move me and, above all, they make me dream, imagine and create.” And how does all this translate into clothing? In almost 80 looks, the designer wanted to present “the wardrobe as a whole and, above all, with a tribute, in some way, to that good energy that blesses us every day.” It included “more basic everyday things, to more sophisticated things for the night, for an event, for a party, for a wedding, whatever.”
There was no shortage of swimsuits, classic jumpsuits and tracksuits. The color palette contrasted with many pastel tones, such as lilac, pink, orange and also gold or black. The hats gave the collection an even more summery feel, from panamas to berets and with some examples of cowboy style.
Nuno Gama is passionate about “classic linens and cottons”, but also “increasingly discovers a world of new techniques, absolutely fascinating, sustainable and extremely important for our lives”. He says that sustainability has always been a concern for the brand, since 1991. “I was born in Azeitão, I grew up in Portinho da Arrábida and every time the chair roses grew, we ran to see them. It was almost like going to mass, it was a religion. We weren’t going to pick the chair roses, because they were there for everyone, they weren’t just for our vase at home. And that connection that you have with Nature, in one way or another, is something that you learn a little about, that it transmits to us.” He believes that every person can and should do their part to improve the world. “I think this is the greatest challenge of our lives, it is this incredible opportunity to be able, in some way, to make magic.”
Nuno Gama after the parade of his brand’s “Luxboa” collection, on the banks of the Tagus © Diogo Ventura
Last year the Nuno Gama brand celebrated 30 years and the designer decided to leave ModaLisboa, where he presented his collections for years. “The time has come to open the way,” he said at the time in an interview with Observador. In October he held his own parade at St. George’s Castle. This station was followed by MAAT, like a tourist guide that we could suggest to a foreigner, but that we should also enjoy, explains the designer. “These are our locations.” Months later and with two individual shows, he says that one of the impacts he feels on the brand is the recovery of customers. If before they were upset because of what they expected or because they couldn’t see the collection, this time there was no shortage of space at the foot of the museum and dozens of people witnessed the parade.
Nuno Gama wanted “a place where light enters freely and where nature invades us freely and we are in communion with it in a good, beautiful and special way.” He considered MAAT to be the ideal location and also open to the public, as those without an invitation could also enjoy the parade by watching it from the marquee. He explains that, in his solo shows, he is concerned with “creating a good atmosphere and a good show” for clients and friends. “There was a need to create this space, this direct relationship with the brand, in some way.” He says that he has always liked “doing things outdoors” and greatly values the freedom of doing them his way. “I need this impact to survive, because this is what feeds me in some way and it is what feeds the brand as well.” As for the future, he only guaranteed short-term certainties: returning “home to rest a little.”
Source: Observadora
