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And the wind changed. A whiff of Cruise at the Chanel show in Marseille


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After transporting guests to the streets of Manchester, with the collection pre fall In 2024, Virgine Viard guided them towards the heights, in a 360-degree panoramic exercise. In the port city of Marseille, the roof of La Cité Radieuse, the apartment complex built between 1947 and 1952 by architect Le Corbusier, was futuristic this Thursday. presentation stage of the Crucero 24/25 collection home French.

At the top of the MAMO, or Modulor of Marseille, a current artistic center with a regular programme, traditional codes and new innovations echo, for a unique beach wardrobe. We are not far from Deuville, a stronghold dominated by blue where Gabrielle Chanel launched herself into the millinery business and where Viard showed her proposals for this spring.

In this open-air event, the weather conditions and, in particular, the wind, challenged the attendees, who before the parade had the opportunity to visit the famous building that housed the Marseillais whose homes were destroyed by Allied bombing during the Second World War. They challenged and supported the atmosphere, so to speak, as the element, like the sea, set the tone for this jovial showcase that followed the Mediterranean vibe.

With the composition Oxygene, by Jean-Michel Jarre, in the background, innovation and nostalgia continued to dominate the plans of the creative director of Chanel, who, as usual, had chosen ambassadors such as Marion Cottilard, Lily-Rose Depp and Charlotte in the front row Casiraghi. . “Marseille is a city that puts me in touch with my emotions,” Virginie highlights in the notes about the collection. “I tried to capture its power of attraction, its breath of fresh air and reflect the energy that reigns here.”

The appearance of the Cruise lot would not disappoint Coco, nor would the demands of a tik tok generation. They are as classic as they are practical, starting with the black ballet flats and the relaxed-foot slippers with offset soles. The timeless white or black – in a series full of lace and floral applications that closed the show – coexist with vibrant colors, in a palette that travels between green and yellow.

Le Corbusier, Housing Unit, Marseille © FLC / ADAGP, Paris, 2024

Crochet shorts, capri versions and mini bike shorts are combined with maxi cardigans; the sweatshirt of hoodies is advertised under the iconic Tweed Bouclé jackets. There are also bodysuits and leotards, dresses with monogram prints, neoprene jerseys, zippers and hoods that evoke diving suits, waves and embroidery that includes fish, fishing nets, shells and shellfish. In the accessories, the talismans occupy the neck area and the double C camps in the most unexpected corners.

The Cité Radieuse seemed to fit the occasion like a glove, with its artistic atmosphere, alternative and multicultural energy, true to the pulsating atmosphere of France’s second largest city. In addition to the cooperative’s private apartments, the building houses a mid-20th-century modern hotel, an art bookstore, art galleries, and even a small retrospective of Agnés Varda, Viard’s favorite filmmaker.

The French fashion house also took the opportunity to launch its own Radio Chanel, with programs broadcast live before and after the shows. In this case, the animation was carried out by the brand ambassador Caroline de Maigret.

It was 1919 when Coco Chanel created the concept of the Croisière (or boat cruise, in French) collection, an assortment of demi-season pieces aimed at customers heading to the Biarretz bathing area in early spring. The fluidity and lightness of the creations, from baggy pants to dresses made for sailing or sports, contrasted with the formality of other highlights of the calendar. The Resort or Cruise season continued at a good pace, repeating itself annually, in the months of May and June, between the launch of the two main ready-to-wear collections. Surprising presentations in surprising places is the chosen formula.

Source: Observadora

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