Space for the new and the strange, with the usual. divers of destiny that have volatility and inevitable competition for a place in the party program. Another New York Fashion Week ended this Wednesday, with the proposals for spring-summer 24 starting, as usual, on the other side of the Atlantic, before the London stopover.

If we talk about collections, with the return of Ralph Lauren, or the star of Peter Do in Helmut Lang, it is also the time for a Gisele without pants, for unexpected pairs that steal attention in any court from the rentréeand even the famous con artist Ana Delvey, who used the roof of her East Village apartment block to show the world Yang Shao’s debut, after having joined forces with Kelly Cutrone to form the Outlaw agency (yes, a more than appropriate one “outside”). the law”).

Returning to the essentials, the designers’ creations, we highlight six presentations that anticipate the coming year, between established artists and newcomers who deserve special attention.

ralph lauren

From JLo to Diane Keaton, from Laura Dern to Amanda Seyfried and Julianne Moore. The cast of celebrities was duly composed for what was the long-awaited return of Ralph Lauren. Apparently not, the last presence on the New York calendar dates back to September 2019, while the Covid-19 pandemic was still unfolding in unimaginable dreams/nightmares. In the memory of this pre-Armageddon world remains the glamor that circulated around Ralph’s Club, the mythical setting that the 84-year-old creator idealized on Wall Street. A legendary cabaret attended by the A-List and also the voice of Janelle Monae, who then performed a medley of hits from the Jazz Age. From the beginning of the last century to an environment that in this edition was guided by the environment of Ralph Lauren’s ranch in Colorado. Guests said goodbye in Manhattan and headed to Brooklyn, where from an empty warehouse with hanging chandeliers Lauren reinvented the American formula in a time of ephemera. The recovery of the RL logo, the traditional work in the denim and the cherry on top: Christy Turlington closed the show with a long gold dress bored with one shoulder exposed.

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Willy Chavarria

Where once there was practically total black, now, in the Woolworth Building, the color manifested itself in its most exuberant form and the style brought mute the omnipresent melody of “quiet luxury.” For someone like Willy Chavarría, who crosses the vitality of streetwear with the corridors of the industry (the one who became senior vice president of Calvin Klein design), the final product brings together seemingly irreconcilable strengths. But in the end everything is fine. Sportswear is joined by the precepts of tailoring, and even underwear arrives to encourage and confound the winning equation. A men’s collection where cowboy hats crown looks based on bombers and pants ultra baggyFeminine collars and delicate boutonniere combine oversized jackets and collegiate inspiration. In black, gold, light blue, lilac and red tones, sometimes more minimalist and sometimes more optimistic, we are ready for it. rodeo urban.

Helmut Lang

From the enigmatic Lang to the no less elusive Peter Do, the designer who rarely allows himself to be photographed, and almost always with his back turned to such rarity. At the helm of the iconic brand that Helmut (the invisible designer, as the New Yorker magazine once called him) abandoned in 2004, much of the week’s attention was focused on the Vietnamese. It was the first day of New York Fashion Week when Helmut Lang’s latest creative director presented his first collection. Committed to continuing the minimalist legacy of the German brand and restoring the vitality that emerged in the late ’90s and early 2000s, Peter Do paraded tailored pieces that fit the measurements of a metropolis, with the white and black splashed with magenta. pink and yellow. oh sportswear interferes with the formality of the facts and the lack of motivational flags, the tank tops ask in your messages. “When was the last time it was you?”

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Altuzarra

In Ira Levin’s 50 years of work, The rosemary baby (The seed of the devil) guided the menu by Joseph Altuzarra, who placed a copy in each seat reserved for guests. The reference is not new: the designer’s spring 2015 collection followed the theme of Roman Polanksi’s film. For a renewed chapter, more raw and stripped down, the preference for tulle, babydoll dresses or lingerie versions, free finishes, in a kind of haute couture dark atmosphere that draws on the aesthetics of the 50s and 60s of the last century and slows down in the 90s, clean and elegant as sorumbatics.

Shape

Identifiable luxury, refined, silent and yet with the right magnetism to go beyond the infallible territory of neutrals. A beautiful tone was added to the palette in question, in that winning trip between brown and pink that warms up the proposals for next spring and summer. The great debut of the brand led by Paul Helber responds to the demand for movement in an intimate environment. The presentation took place on the 10th at noon, in the Fforme studio, in Soho, like a breeze that becomes effective when each piece fulfills its function. “I think our clothes come to life when we see someone wearing them,” he told Vogue about this range of looks. Elegant, timeless, contemporary and ready to use, in their reformulation of spaces and shapes.

Jason Wu Collection

A hyperfeminine fluidity, the deconstruction of denim and tailoring in complicity with ethereal dresses, like evocations of jellyfish and octopuses that respond to the call of the sea: all this was witnessed by those who flocked to the financial district, in Sunken by Isamu Noguchi. Garden, in front of the Chase Manhattan Bank building. “I wanted to embrace imperfection,” the designer, also known for dressing former American first lady Michelle Obama, told Vogue. This season’s prints were inspired by scientific drawings from the 1930s and engravings from the 19th century. and for one fast forward that returns us in seconds to the present-near future, the contrast with the video generated by AI, in collaboration with the artist Matthie Grambert.