I wanted to tell a story of “joy and hope,” which in this case will be revealed through the costumes. At 74 years old, “rebirth” is the word chosen by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac to describe to WWD the reopening ceremony of the Notre Dame Cathedral, scheduled for December 7 (the following day it opens to the general public) . Having collaborated with World Youth Day in 1997, including dressing Pope John Paul II; The French designer announced on his networks the renewal of his link with the Catholic Church: it was the Frenchman’s turn to create the garments that will be worn 700 bishops, priests and deacons attended the ceremony in Paris, The Times reported.
For the project, Castelbajac collaborated with Le19M, the century-old Parisian center created by Chanel that brings together a true constellation of French know-how. “The light and its brilliance guided my creative gesture, I thought of the brilliance of color in the reborn luminous stone of Notre-Dame. My work focused on chromatic rhythm and the strength of gold. Echoing the stained glass windows, color is omnipresent in the white chasubles, around the golden cross,” he describes. “I imagined these elements of clothing to create a rhythm of joy in the heart of the cathedral.”
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The designer also thanked Gilles Rosier, project director, as well as chaplain Guillaume Normand and the Notre-Dame de Paris team “for their valuable advice” in carrying out this titanic work. The vestments reserved for the liturgy are based on the work of jewelry workshops such as goosensand processes such as printing and embroidery were in the hands of lesage. The contribution of the hat shop also comes from Cambom Street. Michel House. and the pigeon studio reinforces the haute couture notes present in the creations. In total, there are 2,000 pieces, including stoles, chasubles and dalmatics, the diocese of Paris announced in June. After this period, figures such as the Archbishop of Paris will exclusively wear Castelbajac designs on occasions such as Easter, Christmas and other special moments.
Known for his use of primary colors, Castelbajac also told the newspaper La Croix that he “started from the cross of the Notre-Dame choir, designed by Marc Couturier,” which remained standing after the 2019 fire, as a source of inspiration for all the work, thus debuting the use of gold. The cross is revealed in the front, in the center of the chasubles, miters and stoles, as “a lighthouse, a marker, a pedestal.” The episcopal chasubles, in fact, will have 12 crosses to symbolize the 12 apostles. The designer, who preferred “sobriety and elegance,” adds that he also intended to instill “a bit of spiritual epic: we must talk about courage to the younger generations.” After the “inaugural period of Notre-Dame Cathedral, which will last until Pentecost 2025,” the Croix says a chasuble will be offered to every parish in Paris.
The French capital is rehearsing the return of a symbol of the city that on April 15, 2019 would be affected by a gigantic fire. Firefighters battled the flames for 15 hours, causing an apparent short circuit in the wooden structure. Images of the fire spread around the world and once it was contained, the damage became visible. The spire collapsed and pierced the vault, the lead siding melted and the stability of the building was compromised. In a short time, a global mobilization managed to raise 846 million euros in donations from 150 countries. And the French State, owner of the building, promised to rebuild the cathedral within five years. That’s what it will be like.
From Andy Warhol to Keith Haring, from Jean Michel Basquiat to Malcolm McLaren, Jean-Charles’ affinities for the world of art and fashion are many and varied. In October 2018 he put his humor and pop approach at the service of the artistic direction of United Colors of Benetton.
Born in Morocco in 1949, from the mind and hands of who they called “king of kitsch”, international hits emerged such as the coat with a teddy bear that Madonna wore, a blue military coat that Beyoncé wore in a music video, a sweater with the Duck Donald modeled by Rihanna, or the monkey rescued from the archive by Zendaya at this year’s Olympic Games.
Source: Observadora